Winter/Early Spring Bulbs
General Winter/Spring bulb guide
Most bulbs are supplied ‘dry’ – ideally in paper packaging rather than plastic so that they don’t sweat and rot. Exceptions include some woodland bulbs like Fritillaria, Erythronium and Lily of the Valley, which are usually packed in plastic with a small amount of compost to reduce moisture loss. A few bulbs that are supplied dry, such as anemones and ranunculus, bene t from pre-soaking prior to planting.
For almost all bulbs, size does matter! With the exception of Anemones, Ranunculus and Freesias, the larger the bulb, the better the flower display.
Excellent drainage is essential for all bulbs. Never plant them in pots without drainage holes. Even ‘woodland bulbs’ e.g. Lily of the valley, that require more moisture still don’t like to be waterlogged. Most bulbs like to be planted in a sunny spot with at least half a day of sun. Many sun-loving bulbs that bloom in Winter and Spring can still do well under deciduous trees, so long as there is good Winter light, as the bulbs go dormant by the time the trees come into leaf. Woodland bulbs enjoy a similar position, but need to be kept as cool as possible during the heat of Summer.
With a few exceptions like Ranunculus (claws down) and Anemones (point down), bulbs are generally planted with the ‘pointy’ end up. With some bulbs such as Fritillaria, it can often be hard to tell which way is up. If in doubt, plant them on their sides and they will right themselves!
In the garden, most bulbs are planted at 2-3 times the depth of the bulb. Exceptions include hyacinths, hippeastrums and nerines, which should be planted with the neck of the bulb above ground. Bearded iris rhizomes also need to be planted barely below soil level so as to get a good Summer baking. When grown in pots, bulbs do not need to be planted as deep as in a garden bed, and can also be spaced much closer together, so that they are almost touching each other (but not touching the side of the pot).
When planting bulbs in the garden, try to avoid planting them singly or in a straight row. Bulbs look much better when planted in groups of at least 3. If you’re planting a large number of bulbs to naturalise in a lawn, throw the bulbs onto the lawn one handful at a time, and plant them where they land.
Unless you are planting in fresh, premium potting mix (which already contains fertiliser) a sprinkling of all-purpose fertiliser should be mixed into the soil, or applied as a top dressing to existing garden plantings and pots. The Growbetter All-Purpose fertiliser (blue bag) is ideal.
As your bulbs emerge, keep an eye out for pests and diseases. Bulbs are generally problem-free, but overwatering can cause mildew and rot. Watch for slugs and snails. Tulips are very susceptible to aphids. Streaks and mottling on the leaves can be due to viruses spread by sap sucking insects, which is why it is so important to treat aphid attacks quickly.
Once planted in the ground, bulbs can usually survive on natural rainfall alone. Potted bulbs are likely to need supplementary watering, especially if planted in terracotta, although excessive watering will cause bulbs to rot.
After blooming, remove spent flowers, but do not tie up or remove any leaves. Feed again with an all-purpose fertiliser and continue to water. The foliage will look very messy during this time, but it is essential that leaves are allowed to die down entirely, as this returns nutrients to the bulb and ensures good flowering again next year.
Most Winter and Spring flowering bulbs go dormant over Summer, after their leaves have died down. Bulbs planted in the ground can be left in-situ, but do not like Summer moisture during dormancy. If your garden bed has regular irrigation it is best to lift the bulbs, allow them to dry, and store in a paper or mesh bag or a stocking in the coolest part of the house or shed (but not refrigerated). Bulbs grown in pots can be left in their pots and allowed to dry out under an eave or other position where they do not receive any supplementary irrigation.
Tulips
The tulip season is quite short, so although tulips are classified as early, mid and late, almost all will bloom between late August and early October.
Tulip types:
Triumph tulips – By far the most commonly grown class of tulips, and generally earlier blooming than other types e.g. Saigon, Mascara, Alibi, Strong Gold. The taller, larger flowered Darwin tulips e.g. Orange Balloon and Ad Rem are often shown in the Triumph section of bulb catalogues.
Single late (aka French or Monet) tulips – tall, late flowering, classically shaped tulips that make superb cut flowers e.g. Queen of the Night, Menton, Avignon, Clearwater
Double/Peony tulips – short, strong stems and showy blooms e.g. Angelique, Belicia, Cartouche
Other tulip types include lily-flowered, parrot, fringed, viridflora and species.
To chill, or not to chill? Our growers don’t recommend refrigerating bulbs. Rather, they suggest waiting for cooler soil temperatures. In their words: “We do not refrigerate ANY of our tulip bulbs. Chilling does not determine if they will flower. Correct storage post harvest determines flowering. Most tulip varieties will already have the bloom inside prior to arriving to you. Chilling bulbs gives them a false Winter, and forces them to flower over a short period. The bulbs are generally then useless post blooming. Rather than chilling, wait until temps are down to 15 degrees prior to planting.”
Planting
Cooler soil temperatures do not usually arrive in Melbourne until the end of April, and early May is the earliest our grower recommends for planting. However, by this time many of the most popular tulip varieties have sold out, so it’s still best to purchase your tulip bulbs when they first become available in March, then store them cool and dry until you are ready to plant - which can be as late as the end of June if you wish.
Tulips grow best in a neutral soil. Add a sprinkling of lime if your soil is slightly acidic (pH6 or less). They are suited to growing both in pots and in the ground. Species tulips will naturalise readily in garden beds.
Will tulips re-bloom?
Tulips are often treated as an annual in Australia, due to their reputation for failing to re-flower in subsequent years. While some varieties return better than others, and your local climate is also a factor, correct storage is the best way to improve your chances of success next year.
Lift the bulbs only after the foliage has completely died down, brush off any loose dirt, then dry and store them in a paper or mesh bag, in a cool, well ventilated room. Tulips need to be kept at a constant 20°C to ensure the flower develops properly; exposure to long periods of high temperatures can kill the developing flower and result in leaves but no flowers the next season.
Freesias
Freesia refracta, or Grandma’s Freesia, are a traditional fragrant favourite. With short stems and a vigorous growth habit, they are ideal for naturalising. The larger-flowered hybrid freesias also have longer stems that are perfect for cutting. They come in a range of colours, including some excellent double forms. Freesias are one of the easiest bulbs to grow, with no special requirements. Whilst they can be left in the ground after flowering, they make numerous offsets which can easily spread throughout the garden when the soil is disturbed. If you wish to avoid this, lift and store the bulbs after the foliage has died down, or replace with fresh bulbs next season.
Daffodils
There are 13 different divisions of daffodils, and by choosing a mixture of species and varieties, you can have daffodils flowering in your garden for 5 months of the year - from June right through until October.
Daffodil flowering times:
Very Early: June and July - Paperwhites, most Hoop Petticoats
Early: First half August - Tete a Tete, Erlicheer
Early-Mid: Last half August - Ice Follies, Welcome, Dick Wilden
Mid: First half September - Marieke, Brighton, Cherio, Precocious
Late: Last half September - McIvor, Shirley Anne, Tahiti, White Ideal
Very Late: October - Winston Churchill, Poeticus types
Daffodils are best planted during March and April. All grow well in pots, as well as in garden beds, where they prefer neutral to slightly acid soil.
Hyacinths
If planted outdoors between March and May, hyacinths will bloom naturally in Spring, and should re-flower the following year. Alternatively, hyacinths are one of the few bulbs that can be forced successfully by refrigerating them for 6-8weeks, which will encourage late May/early June blooming. However, once forced, they are unlikely to comeback for a second year.
Unlike daffodils and tulips, hyacinths need to be planted with the full neck of the bulb above soil level. If growing your hyacinths in pots, lightly moisten the soil after planting, then place the pots in total darkness for several weeks e.g. a cool cupboard or cellar, which allows strong roots to form and ensures that the flower stalk develops correctly. Check on the pots every couple of weeks to make sure the soil hasn’t dried out. Once the emerging shoot has cleared the neck of the bulb by about 3” or 8cm, you can bring the bulbs out into the light.
Ideally, grow your hyacinth pots outdoors to keep them compact. If grown indoors the stalk tends to elongate and bend, as is not strong enough to support the flowers. Once the flowers are beginning to open, you can bring them indoors to enjoy their beauty and fragrance.
A fun option for children is to grow a hyacinth in a vase, with the base of the bulb sitting just above water (not touching, or it will rot). They love to watch the roots growing down into the water. Just as with potted bulbs, place the vase in darkness, keep the water topped up, and bring the vase into the light once the shoot has emerged.
Crocus
Crocus are hugely popular in the northern hemisphere, and deserve to be more widely grown in Australia, as they are both easy and reliably perennial. The Melbourne winter is plenty cold enough to grow crocus successfully and there are several types available which will give a succession of flowers over a long period.
The season starts with the saffron crocus (Crocus sativus) in Autumn, followed by the dainty snow crocus (Crocus chrysanthus) in Winter, then Crocus tommasinianus, and finally the large flowered Dutch crocus (Crocus vernus) in Spring.
Given their small size and delicate flowers, crocus are particularly suited to pots but grow equally well in the ground - just be careful not to lose track of where you planted them!
Lily of the Valley
Unless you live in the Dandenongs, growing Lily of the Valley in Melbourne is likely to be a challenge. This doesn’t stop most of us from trying, as the dainty white bells and wonderful scent make them irresistible!
Lily of the Valley is available as ‘pips’ in Autumn and should be planted immediately. It needs cool conditions and a moist, humus rich soil. In the inner suburbs of Melbourne, try growing it in the shade of deciduous trees or in a south-east facing aspect that receives good morning light. Apply a thick organic mulch of well-rotted compost and leaf litter, both to keep the roots cool and to improve the soil.
Anemones & Ranunculus
Ranunculus and Anemone coronaria make excellent cut flowers. Both bulbs benefit from soaking overnight prior to planting, which helps to ensure more uniform flowering.
Unlike most other bulbs, anemones are planted with the pointy end down, and ranunculus are planted with the claws pointing downwards.
They benefit from extra feeding with a liquid fertiliser during their growing cycle, and spent flowers should be removed regularly to extend the flowering season. Anemones and ranunculus are best treated as an annual or bi-annual i.e. plant fresh bulbs every year or two.
